<-- Index
<-- another page about ICC
<--third page about ICC
:
https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5SSR100-Spyder5STUDIO-Color-Calibration/dp/B014ALPSGA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1491000294&sr=8-7&keywords=color+calibration+print
400 dollars
-----------
Looking for info on "dual cmyk" what order does the left side need to be in? from the factory it's LLB, LM, LC, LB. I'm guessing C would replace LLB, M would replace LM, Y would replace LC and K would replace LB???
sss
--------
Thanks, I've got the ink channels all sorted now I'm trying to color profile the printer with an I1 Pro
My question now is do I use the RGB or CMYK test charts? I tried the CMYK and the color is so far off that it reads the first 26 lines and says line 27 has to many errors.
--------
I do not know if you can use a program like i1Pro for sublimation. My experience, again from several years ago, was that the colors changed so dramatically from what you printed to what appeared on the fabric following transfer, that I spent hours trying to second guess the printed colors. However after a fashion I got good at knowing the curves and was able to color match reasonably accurately...but the test patterns were no help and consumed a ton of dye. I hope others have better experience with i1 Pro or other.
I am following this closely because I really want to get a used 9800 and do the same.
Please keep posing your results.
Thanks
-------------
Profiling on fabric is difficult. The spectro can't get a great read on it. The I1Pro works great for dyesub assuming the printer's in alignment and the lines are crisp.
Use metal or unisub to create the profile(s). It will get you close enough on the fabric IMO, and is much easier to read in the charts. More than likely the charts with the smallest number of patches with do just fine. When I'm in a rush I use the DTP41 chart. 99% of the time it yields good results.
----------
T shitrt biz
I want to get back to printing, but I want to try sublimation. Because of the great posts by members, I think I have already decided on equipment, but any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
-
Have you thought about plastisol transfers?
It is screen print. You order your sheets online and they come to you in sheets so then you just press them on the shirt with a good, powerful heat press.
Here is a video because I am really happy with this and my clients love it. I have wash them and everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmefCTe_Ohc
p's: i have the same heat press on the video. Transfer Express is somewhat expensive but you can try for a start FM Expressions with their 15 cent program just keep in mind they are very strict with ganging like having two objects on it they consider it gangin but I recommend them for beginners who are just starting out.
---------------
We use dye sublimation for our products and love the outcome. The colors are more vibrant once they are pressed onto the product.
-------
You have experience in screenprinting which means zero learning curve, compared to something that may take you a while to learn plus the cost of substrates for trial and error.
Not trying to discourage you from sublimation but if you already have a skill in screenprinting, I think it would be smart to get back into that first and then play around with sublimation. Unless you just have the time and money to try sublimation first, then go for it.
Pointers?.... Be VERY patient with sublimation. It can slap you several times. Just turn the other cheek and keep going.
------------
Adding to your point, Corel Draw also comes with Photo Paint, a bitmap/photo editor. So technically you get vector and bitmap in the "Suite"
If someone pointed a gun to my head and said pick 1 program, and only 1 program, it would be Corel,
--
Yes. Photopaint is a very strong bitmap program. I think one could use the Corel suite happily and never realize that there are things the Adobe programs can do that Corel can't. Add to that the amazing collection of fonts and clipart that come with Corel, and it's a remarkable deal.
---
Most people use Photoshop and Corel Draw programs for making transfers.
---
The free ones are Gimp (https://www.gimp.org) and Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/en)
---
1. PS Color workspace color management setup.
2. Epson driver. Disable color management.
If you set to matte paper that gives you more ink hence more dye saturation. Plain/Inkjet paper setting gives you less ink less dye saturation.
Use this test photo.
http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.zip
There should be a "key" (text file) that "decodes" the ICC file name from Cobra. It tells you what paper setting (ie matte) and what quality (ie HQ) in the Epson driver for what paper and what substrate. So those settings depend on the profile used.
.------------
Although the profiles are for different substrates, suggest to try all of them on plain 100% poly fabric from Walmart. It is cheap and sold by the roll.
BTW, those charts are "swatches" they are not for use as absolute colors, they are relative colors.
You use them as reference, much like you go to the Home Depot and look at paint swatches, you visually look at the color you like and use it's RGB number.
The swatches it is OK to be off color. As long as your settings don't change the swatches may not be a perfect color, but will be consistent if you don't change the workspace settings. You can add to the swatch palette as needed for more custom colors. You are going to "color by number" so to say.
Those swatches are only used for spot colors and not photos. Just like picking a crayon from the crayon box, pick the color you like and associate the colors RGB number with the design graphic, don't worry about what you see on the screen.
You transfer those swatches onto your substrates for visual reference so you can recreate the same thing later just by using the RGB numbers, keeping the system settings the same of course.
Don't use the swatches to judge absolute color, using the PDI target file for that.
Without a true calibrated monitor if you look at those swatches on 10 different monitors likely you will see 10 different results.
It's also possible (actually very probable) that your monitor is not calibrated for graphic work. It doesn't have to be, but it's a "plus". Your monitor can be off but you can still have good color. It's what prints and transfers that counts. Not what you screen thinks the color is. A black and while monitor (if we still had such things) could still allow perfect colors, of course it would be painful to work with such a thing.
Having said that it's very nice to have a calibrated monitor such as I do, but you can get by without it.
Use the PDI target file to judge your color, it is a perfect photo.
Your printed transfer unpressed should be weak looking, your substrate after pressing should have more pop.
On poly fabric 380 to 400 is OK 45 - 60 seconds, medium pressure. On the sub paper print on the side that is the "whitest white".
----------
Lines in the printout sometimes and not other times I suspect you have an intermittent issue with vacuum (priming) on your CIS. Unless you changed your paper type and/or resolution in the Epson driver then you should not see any lines in the printout really.
Beyond a nozzle check I use color bars of the pure cart colors to determine if I have banding or lines.
https://www.inksupply.com/zip/purge.zip
Just use the 4 color file in side the zip package, you can resize as you like, should be maybe at least 1/4 of a page in size or bigger to see it well.
A nozzle check only takes a tiny amount of ink, if there are any air bubbles in the line it might not show until you are at least doing some printing of a solid area.
You can get a X-rite or a Spyder brand device to calibrate your monitor they are not very expensive. Having said that unless you have an IPS monitor your gamut (color range) is more narrow. But it's still possible to improve the color within it's limited range.
Keep in mind any monitor error is not what is causing your immediate issue.
You had mentioned that changing your profile had no effect on the output ... that suggests to me that you don't have the color management turned off in the Epson driver perhaps. Some of profiles are more subtle in differences than others but nonetheless you should be able to see differences, especially if you use the PDI target file.
That text file that I refer to as the "key" file that "decodes" the profile file name for you; just open it in notepad. I don't know when you got your profile package but an example of what should be inside:
This was named "File name code.txt"
[Printer name]_[intended uses]_[Paper setting]_[Quality setting]_[ink type]
File name code=
WF7010 _ Polyester Dye Trans _ Plain Paper _ Max Quality _ RZ280 ink
Yours would be for your printer of course and might be named differently. I'm not at my home computer with my WF7110 "key" file.
------------
RIP
What is the best RIP software for sublimation? Printer: mutoh rj-900x
Also curious if the place that sells your ink should be giving an ICC profile for that ink for that printer. Or am I wrong?
--
as for rip software there are a few that are good, I personally use
Flexi and like it, have not tried others.
---
Wasatch SoftRIP is the best RIP software.
---
Wasatch is a good RIP. Profiles are an individual thing. Canned profiles can be a good starting point but you won't get great color until you have a profile built specifically for you. Different fabrics, resolutions, papers will all affect how a profile looks. Ask anyone that's had one made and they'll tell you that their stuff is better because of it.
---
--------
Right, that is where you apply an ICC profile, but it has to come from the specific ink manufacturer. You could also try calibrating your monitor, if you are creating your own art. You can buy a tool for that on Amazon for around $100. Most artist that use outside printing services will do this.
---
You can also try using another inks icc profile if you DONT have a profile, then print out a pantone reference chart and see if there are big diferences in color, if they are fairly similar maybe you could work with that. Other than that if you dont have a rio
Software with built in color profiler, use the software from spyder it should have a printer profiler.
---
If you already have an ICC made (assuming it was done correctly) I can help you set up PS generically to use it. Some minor setting "tweaking" may be required but nothing to sweat.
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/834/cpsid_83497.html
Please see the information on Adobe's site, and the utility's 'Read Me' file for their installation and usage instructions.
Note that there are separate downloads for Mac and PC.
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/profiling-adobe-utility-PC.shtml
-------------
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/printing-epson-PC.shtml
After reading the previous articles,
you'll want to know what to do when your images have left Photoshop or Lightroom, etc.,
or you are printing our Profiling Targets using the Adobe Color Printer Utility,
and you are confronted with the Epson Printer Driver menu.
Whether you are printing our Profiling Targets with 'No Color Management' using the Adobe Utility, from which our Custom ICC Printer Profiles will be created, or printing your actual photos with 'Application Colour Management' ('Let Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. Manage Color'), absolutely NO Colour Management can be applied by the Epson Printer Driver
<-- another page about ICC
<--third page about ICC
Who Does Custom ICC Profiles?
Something like this will let you do it yourself. This could be useful, as it is different for each type of media:
https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5SSR100-Spyder5STUDIO-Color-Calibration/dp/B014ALPSGA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1491000294&sr=8-7&keywords=color+calibration+print
400 dollars
- Datacolor Spyder5STUDIO is for professional and serious photographers seeking the ultimate control of their entire color workflow from capture, to edit, to print. This bundle provides outstanding savings in a convenient and portable metal case.
- Capture scene white balance and exposure data anywhere with SpyderCUBE, to ensure accurate data for editing.
- Calibrate and profile your desktop and laptop displays with Spyder5ELITE for accurate color from preview, to post-process, to final presentation.
- Control brightness, white point, and tone response with created profiles for all of your printers, inks, and papers with SpyderPRINT.
- Datacolor and Adobe work hand-in-hand to offer the complete package for your photography workflow. Get a complimentary Adobe Creative Cloud Photography plan - 90 day trial with your Spyder purchase. A redemption code will be sent upon Spyder activation
-----------
Your ink provider should be able to provide you a profile.
รถ----
Have you Calibrated your Monitor to your printer?
---------
"With using a laser printer, I am assuming you are not using a RIP.
Thus, you are limited to the adjustment in the print driver for the
laser printer. The only way you are going to adjust the ICC profile is
to find someone that can develop new profiles. Hopefully, the new
cartridge will have the same strength toner in it as the previous one.
Otherwise, your distributor might need to get new profiles for everyone
that owns that system."
---
---
ICC profiles generally require a fixed color management setup.
So the sub paper used should be determined by the same sub paper that was used during the creation of the ICC profile. Ideally speaking that is.
Anything else could give different results.
In most cases there really are 2 types of papers, one is for general use like the "Dyetrans" brand, the other is a higher release type, for example Texprint HR. Many of the general purpose papers are very similar and often can be used interchangeably.
So I would say the paper that should be used is dependent on the profile, not vice versa.
The difference is the the higher release Texprint HR paper, if used with a profile that was made using Dyetrans general purpose sublimation paper, then the transferred image may appear over saturated.
Whereas if general purpose Dyetrans sub paper was used on a profile that was created using Texprint sub paper, then the transferred image might be weaker looking.
So the sub paper used should be determined by the same sub paper that was used during the creation of the ICC profile. Ideally speaking that is.
Anything else could give different results.
In most cases there really are 2 types of papers, one is for general use like the "Dyetrans" brand, the other is a higher release type, for example Texprint HR. Many of the general purpose papers are very similar and often can be used interchangeably.
So I would say the paper that should be used is dependent on the profile, not vice versa.
The difference is the the higher release Texprint HR paper, if used with a profile that was made using Dyetrans general purpose sublimation paper, then the transferred image may appear over saturated.
Whereas if general purpose Dyetrans sub paper was used on a profile that was created using Texprint sub paper, then the transferred image might be weaker looking.
--------
You would have to judge by print quality, but I imagine running it unidirectional would negate the speed benefit of dual CMYK.
On the other hand, if quality is noticeably better printing unidirectional, then the dual CMYK option will mean you can still maintain bidirectional speeds - best of both worlds I guess.
On the other hand, if quality is noticeably better printing unidirectional, then the dual CMYK option will mean you can still maintain bidirectional speeds - best of both worlds I guess.
-------
I would assume dual cmyk would have an effect on speed like with dtg and be faster. I cannot be sure but that is what i know to be true for dtg
-----
Looking for info on "dual cmyk" what order does the left side need to be in? from the factory it's LLB, LM, LC, LB. I'm guessing C would replace LLB, M would replace LM, Y would replace LC and K would replace LB???
sss
--------
Thanks, I've got the ink channels all sorted now I'm trying to color profile the printer with an I1 Pro
My question now is do I use the RGB or CMYK test charts? I tried the CMYK and the color is so far off that it reads the first 26 lines and says line 27 has to many errors.
--------
I do not know if you can use a program like i1Pro for sublimation. My experience, again from several years ago, was that the colors changed so dramatically from what you printed to what appeared on the fabric following transfer, that I spent hours trying to second guess the printed colors. However after a fashion I got good at knowing the curves and was able to color match reasonably accurately...but the test patterns were no help and consumed a ton of dye. I hope others have better experience with i1 Pro or other.
I am following this closely because I really want to get a used 9800 and do the same.
Please keep posing your results.
Thanks
-------------
Profiling on fabric is difficult. The spectro can't get a great read on it. The I1Pro works great for dyesub assuming the printer's in alignment and the lines are crisp.
Use metal or unisub to create the profile(s). It will get you close enough on the fabric IMO, and is much easier to read in the charts. More than likely the charts with the smallest number of patches with do just fine. When I'm in a rush I use the DTP41 chart. 99% of the time it yields good results.
----------
T shitrt biz
I want to get back to printing, but I want to try sublimation. Because of the great posts by members, I think I have already decided on equipment, but any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
-
Have you thought about plastisol transfers?
It is screen print. You order your sheets online and they come to you in sheets so then you just press them on the shirt with a good, powerful heat press.
Here is a video because I am really happy with this and my clients love it. I have wash them and everything.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmefCTe_Ohc
p's: i have the same heat press on the video. Transfer Express is somewhat expensive but you can try for a start FM Expressions with their 15 cent program just keep in mind they are very strict with ganging like having two objects on it they consider it gangin but I recommend them for beginners who are just starting out.
---------------
We use dye sublimation for our products and love the outcome. The colors are more vibrant once they are pressed onto the product.
-------
You have experience in screenprinting which means zero learning curve, compared to something that may take you a while to learn plus the cost of substrates for trial and error.
Not trying to discourage you from sublimation but if you already have a skill in screenprinting, I think it would be smart to get back into that first and then play around with sublimation. Unless you just have the time and money to try sublimation first, then go for it.
Pointers?.... Be VERY patient with sublimation. It can slap you several times. Just turn the other cheek and keep going.
------------
Adding to your point, Corel Draw also comes with Photo Paint, a bitmap/photo editor. So technically you get vector and bitmap in the "Suite"
If someone pointed a gun to my head and said pick 1 program, and only 1 program, it would be Corel,
--
Yes. Photopaint is a very strong bitmap program. I think one could use the Corel suite happily and never realize that there are things the Adobe programs can do that Corel can't. Add to that the amazing collection of fonts and clipart that come with Corel, and it's a remarkable deal.
---
Most people use Photoshop and Corel Draw programs for making transfers.
---
The free ones are Gimp (https://www.gimp.org) and Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/en)
---
1. PS Color workspace color management setup.
2. Epson driver. Disable color management.
If you set to matte paper that gives you more ink hence more dye saturation. Plain/Inkjet paper setting gives you less ink less dye saturation.
Use this test photo.
http://www.gballard.net/dl/PDI_TargetFolderONLY.zip
There should be a "key" (text file) that "decodes" the ICC file name from Cobra. It tells you what paper setting (ie matte) and what quality (ie HQ) in the Epson driver for what paper and what substrate. So those settings depend on the profile used.
.------------
Although the profiles are for different substrates, suggest to try all of them on plain 100% poly fabric from Walmart. It is cheap and sold by the roll.
BTW, those charts are "swatches" they are not for use as absolute colors, they are relative colors.
You use them as reference, much like you go to the Home Depot and look at paint swatches, you visually look at the color you like and use it's RGB number.
The swatches it is OK to be off color. As long as your settings don't change the swatches may not be a perfect color, but will be consistent if you don't change the workspace settings. You can add to the swatch palette as needed for more custom colors. You are going to "color by number" so to say.
Those swatches are only used for spot colors and not photos. Just like picking a crayon from the crayon box, pick the color you like and associate the colors RGB number with the design graphic, don't worry about what you see on the screen.
You transfer those swatches onto your substrates for visual reference so you can recreate the same thing later just by using the RGB numbers, keeping the system settings the same of course.
Don't use the swatches to judge absolute color, using the PDI target file for that.
Without a true calibrated monitor if you look at those swatches on 10 different monitors likely you will see 10 different results.
It's also possible (actually very probable) that your monitor is not calibrated for graphic work. It doesn't have to be, but it's a "plus". Your monitor can be off but you can still have good color. It's what prints and transfers that counts. Not what you screen thinks the color is. A black and while monitor (if we still had such things) could still allow perfect colors, of course it would be painful to work with such a thing.
Having said that it's very nice to have a calibrated monitor such as I do, but you can get by without it.
Use the PDI target file to judge your color, it is a perfect photo.
Your printed transfer unpressed should be weak looking, your substrate after pressing should have more pop.
On poly fabric 380 to 400 is OK 45 - 60 seconds, medium pressure. On the sub paper print on the side that is the "whitest white".
----------
Lines in the printout sometimes and not other times I suspect you have an intermittent issue with vacuum (priming) on your CIS. Unless you changed your paper type and/or resolution in the Epson driver then you should not see any lines in the printout really.
Beyond a nozzle check I use color bars of the pure cart colors to determine if I have banding or lines.
https://www.inksupply.com/zip/purge.zip
Just use the 4 color file in side the zip package, you can resize as you like, should be maybe at least 1/4 of a page in size or bigger to see it well.
A nozzle check only takes a tiny amount of ink, if there are any air bubbles in the line it might not show until you are at least doing some printing of a solid area.
You can get a X-rite or a Spyder brand device to calibrate your monitor they are not very expensive. Having said that unless you have an IPS monitor your gamut (color range) is more narrow. But it's still possible to improve the color within it's limited range.
Keep in mind any monitor error is not what is causing your immediate issue.
You had mentioned that changing your profile had no effect on the output ... that suggests to me that you don't have the color management turned off in the Epson driver perhaps. Some of profiles are more subtle in differences than others but nonetheless you should be able to see differences, especially if you use the PDI target file.
That text file that I refer to as the "key" file that "decodes" the profile file name for you; just open it in notepad. I don't know when you got your profile package but an example of what should be inside:
This was named "File name code.txt"
[Printer name]_[intended uses]_[Paper setting]_[Quality setting]_[ink type]
File name code=
WF7010 _ Polyester Dye Trans _ Plain Paper _ Max Quality _ RZ280 ink
Yours would be for your printer of course and might be named differently. I'm not at my home computer with my WF7110 "key" file.
------------
RIP
What is the best RIP software for sublimation? Printer: mutoh rj-900x
Also curious if the place that sells your ink should be giving an ICC profile for that ink for that printer. Or am I wrong?
--
as for rip software there are a few that are good, I personally use
Flexi and like it, have not tried others.
---
Wasatch SoftRIP is the best RIP software.
---
Wasatch is a good RIP. Profiles are an individual thing. Canned profiles can be a good starting point but you won't get great color until you have a profile built specifically for you. Different fabrics, resolutions, papers will all affect how a profile looks. Ask anyone that's had one made and they'll tell you that their stuff is better because of it.
---
I am not familiar with Sublinova. I use Cobra and with them, I had to reach out to them and they emailed me the ICC profiles.
--------
Right, that is where you apply an ICC profile, but it has to come from the specific ink manufacturer. You could also try calibrating your monitor, if you are creating your own art. You can buy a tool for that on Amazon for around $100. Most artist that use outside printing services will do this.
---
You can also try using another inks icc profile if you DONT have a profile, then print out a pantone reference chart and see if there are big diferences in color, if they are fairly similar maybe you could work with that. Other than that if you dont have a rio
Software with built in color profiler, use the software from spyder it should have a printer profiler.
---
Some people do custom ICC profiles, contact Paul from DyeSubForum he does them for £25
----
Who did you get your ink from? Most suppliers will give you a generic
sublinova profile for your printer, once you have purchased the ink from
them.
---
Your target as printed out need to have all color management turned off.
PS now-a-days doesn't accomplish that, however Adobe provides a utility
for that purpose.
Read this link for a general description.
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/profiling-adobe-utility-PC.shtml
Read this link for a general description.
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/profiling-adobe-utility-PC.shtml
This is the utility you should use to print the target file you scan to create the ICC
https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/no-color-management-option-missing.html
https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/no-color-management-option-missing.html
If you already have an ICC made (assuming it was done correctly) I can help you set up PS generically to use it. Some minor setting "tweaking" may be required but nothing to sweat.
---
The option for No Color Management is no longer listed in the Color
Handling pop-up menu in the Photoshop CS5 Print dialog box. Use the
Adobe Color Printer Utility application to print your targets without
color management applied.
Download
After you download the appropriate file, double-click the zip file. On Mac OS, double-click the resulting .dmg file.
- Mac OS: Drag the Adobe Color Printer Utility.app file to the Applications folder or your preferred folder.
- Windows: Choose to extract all the files. After extraction is complete, drag the Adobe Color Printer Utility to your preferred folder.
Windows
-------
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/profiling-adobe-utility-PC.shtml
The printing process for both the targets and your actual images, using your new Custom ICC Printer Profile, must be absolutely identical, hence our instructions can be the same!
You need to print the special profiling
charts (targets) without any form of Colour
Management being applied anywhere in the system. This is in order to capture the 'native'
characteristics of the printer, its ink and paper. Until a few years ago this was possible
with Photoshop (until CS5), where you could print with 'No Color Management' selected.
This 'No Color Management' option has never been present in Lightroom however.
This caused many customers to complain to Adobe, who produced this special free utility.
Printing Colour Targets Using The Adobe Color Printer Utility on a PC
The Adobe Color Printer Utility is used to print the colour charts (targets) used to profile (or 'characterise') your printer. These charts will then be posted to us, and on receipt, will be measured ('read') by our spectrophotometer while creating your Custom Printer Profiles. This is the only function of the utility. You cannot use it to print photographs, as it cannot use colour management, so you still use Photoshop, Lightroom and other suitable applications for printing, when you have received your new Custom Profile from us.The printing process for both the targets and your actual images, using your new Custom ICC Printer Profile, must be absolutely identical, hence our instructions can be the same!
Why must I use this Adobe Color Printer Utility and not Photoshop or Lightroom?
You need to print the special profiling
charts (targets) without any form of Colour
Management being applied anywhere in the system. This is in order to capture the 'native'
characteristics of the printer, its ink and paper. Until a few years ago this was possible
with Photoshop (until CS5), where you could print with 'No Color Management' selected.
This 'No Color Management' option has never been present in Lightroom however.
This caused many customers to complain to Adobe, who produced this special free utility.
-----------
How to Download the Utility
Download free from Adobe at:http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/834/cpsid_83497.html
Please see the information on Adobe's site, and the utility's 'Read Me' file for their installation and usage instructions.
Note that there are separate downloads for Mac and PC.
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/profiling-adobe-utility-PC.shtml
-------------
http://www.colourphil.co.uk/printing-epson-PC.shtml
Why is it Important to Print with 'No Color Management' in the Epson Driver?
After reading the previous articles,
you'll want to know what to do when your images have left Photoshop or Lightroom, etc.,
or you are printing our Profiling Targets using the Adobe Color Printer Utility,
and you are confronted with the Epson Printer Driver menu.Whether you are printing our Profiling Targets with 'No Color Management' using the Adobe Utility, from which our Custom ICC Printer Profiles will be created, or printing your actual photos with 'Application Colour Management' ('Let Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. Manage Color'), absolutely NO Colour Management can be applied by the Epson Printer Driver
-----------
Modern Windows Epson Stylus Pro menus shown. R3000 and 'SureColor' (P600, etc.) are similar.
Press Properties which should then take you through to the Main Tab of the Epson Printer Driver Menu:
Printing Properties (Preferencies): Main Tab
Settings: Recall your Settings if you have already saved a set for your paper, quality, etc.
Media Type: This controls the 'ink loading', and also (depending on model) platen gap, paper thickness, etc. Select the most appropriate type. The description which most closely matches your paper. There may be instructions supplied with the paper.
NEVER select Plain Paper as this is for very low quality uncoated paper, and won't allow enough ink to be laid down, and probably will mess up colour management!
You should run tests. In this case we are using Premium Glossy Photo Paper, which works well with many other manufacturers papers, such as the Ilford Gallerie Smooth Pearl and Gloss papers.
Non-Epson paper may require a different 'media' selection than Epson paper of a similar name.
Make a note of the exact description.
Ink: Photo (Glossy) or Matte Black is automatically selected here by the Media Type.
Color: Color may be greyed-out, which is good.
Mode: Any Color Management settings must be OFF, and may be greyed-out, which is good.
It is vital that the profiling targets are printed with ALL colour management disabled. This is the main reason why it is essential to read our manual (in the downloaded folder)! With Windows PCs it can sometimes be rather difficult to switch off colour management!
Modern Epsons MUST say Off (No ColorAdjust).
Advanced or Custom: You may need to select this to find the 'No Color Management', 'Off (No ColorAdjust)' options. With some older Epsons you may eve have to select ICM before you can select Off (No ColorAdjust).
After checking the separate sub-menus, including 'Quality Options' press OK
Quality Options: Separate sub-menu.
Speed: Adjust with slider. Normally SuperFine - 1440 dpi as here, or even better, SuperPhoto - 2880 dpi.
Please don't confuse printer resolution (dpi-'dots per inch') with your image's resolution (ppi-'pixels per inch') as they are NOT the same! 360 ppi is usually a very good resolution for images, but 360 dpi isn't likely to be sufficient for printing on quality papers.
In our sample 'High Speed' is Off. This usually refers to 'bi-directional' printing, and may give better (smoother) results, at the expense of speed, if turned Off.
These settings mainly control resolution and 'screening'.
You may need to test them.
Edge Smoothing and Finest Detail: OFF (unless your original images are at 720 ppi resolution.
Paper Configuration: (Found on Main Menu, at right side, 'Pro' printers only!).
Color Density: Default is 0. After running tests, you may well find that the default setting prints are a little light and slightly lacking in colour saturation.
With non-Epson inks, which normally print 'lighter' than Epson, it may be advisable to increase the 'Density' by a small amount (try +10).
If on the other hand your prints are too heavy, or not drying properly, reduce the setting. Write down the value and ensure that it is saved as part of the 'setting', so that it can be used for actual images as well as the charts.
Refer to the Epson manual before changing the other settings. If your printer shows signs of 'head strikes', perhaps with ink smudges on the edges of the print, especially with curly paper, possibly accompanied by strange noises, then you may want to increase the Platten Gap. You may find that 'head strikes' cause blocked jets (not good).
Older software (Windows Vista, etc.) Epson SP1400, etc.
Printing Properties (Preferencies): Main (Basic) Menu/Tab
Please read the above instructions, except:
Type: Refers to 'Media'.
Quality Options: Photo or Best Photo normally.
Print Options: All OFF
Advanced: Select this to get to the 'Colour Management', etc. settings.
Main/Advanced Menu/Tab
Epson SP1400 type
Custom Settings: Recall your Settings if you have already saved a set for your paper, quality, etc.
Color Management: Must show OFF (No Color Adjustment). VERY Important!
Note: With this printer you may have to first select ICM before you can select Color Management to OFF.
Press OK
Now you're ready to Print!
Modern Windows Epson Stylus Pro menus shown. R3000 and 'SureColor' (P600, etc.) are similar.
Press Properties which should then take you through to the Main Tab of the Epson Printer Driver Menu:
Printing Properties (Preferencies): Main TabSettings: Recall your Settings if you have already saved a set for your paper, quality, etc.
Media Type: This controls the 'ink loading', and also (depending on model) platen gap, paper thickness, etc. Select the most appropriate type. The description which most closely matches your paper. There may be instructions supplied with the paper.
NEVER select Plain Paper as this is for very low quality uncoated paper, and won't allow enough ink to be laid down, and probably will mess up colour management!
You should run tests. In this case we are using Premium Glossy Photo Paper, which works well with many other manufacturers papers, such as the Ilford Gallerie Smooth Pearl and Gloss papers.
Non-Epson paper may require a different 'media' selection than Epson paper of a similar name.
Make a note of the exact description.
Ink: Photo (Glossy) or Matte Black is automatically selected here by the Media Type.
Color: Color may be greyed-out, which is good.
Mode: Any Color Management settings must be OFF, and may be greyed-out, which is good.
It is vital that the profiling targets are printed with ALL colour management disabled. This is the main reason why it is essential to read our manual (in the downloaded folder)! With Windows PCs it can sometimes be rather difficult to switch off colour management!
Modern Epsons MUST say Off (No ColorAdjust).
Advanced or Custom: You may need to select this to find the 'No Color Management', 'Off (No ColorAdjust)' options. With some older Epsons you may eve have to select ICM before you can select Off (No ColorAdjust).
After checking the separate sub-menus, including 'Quality Options' press OK
Quality Options: Separate sub-menu.Speed: Adjust with slider. Normally SuperFine - 1440 dpi as here, or even better, SuperPhoto - 2880 dpi.
Please don't confuse printer resolution (dpi-'dots per inch') with your image's resolution (ppi-'pixels per inch') as they are NOT the same! 360 ppi is usually a very good resolution for images, but 360 dpi isn't likely to be sufficient for printing on quality papers.
In our sample 'High Speed' is Off. This usually refers to 'bi-directional' printing, and may give better (smoother) results, at the expense of speed, if turned Off.
These settings mainly control resolution and 'screening'.
You may need to test them.
Edge Smoothing and Finest Detail: OFF (unless your original images are at 720 ppi resolution.
Paper Configuration: (Found on Main Menu, at right side, 'Pro' printers only!).
Color Density: Default is 0. After running tests, you may well find that the default setting prints are a little light and slightly lacking in colour saturation.
With non-Epson inks, which normally print 'lighter' than Epson, it may be advisable to increase the 'Density' by a small amount (try +10).
If on the other hand your prints are too heavy, or not drying properly, reduce the setting. Write down the value and ensure that it is saved as part of the 'setting', so that it can be used for actual images as well as the charts.
Refer to the Epson manual before changing the other settings. If your printer shows signs of 'head strikes', perhaps with ink smudges on the edges of the print, especially with curly paper, possibly accompanied by strange noises, then you may want to increase the Platten Gap. You may find that 'head strikes' cause blocked jets (not good).
Epson Printer Driver Menu: Older & Simpler Models
Older software (Windows Vista, etc.) Epson SP1400, etc.Printing Properties (Preferencies): Main (Basic) Menu/Tab
Please read the above instructions, except:
Type: Refers to 'Media'.
Quality Options: Photo or Best Photo normally.
Print Options: All OFF
Advanced: Select this to get to the 'Colour Management', etc. settings.
Main/Advanced Menu/Tab
Epson SP1400 typeCustom Settings: Recall your Settings if you have already saved a set for your paper, quality, etc.
Color Management: Must show OFF (No Color Adjustment). VERY Important!
Note: With this printer you may have to first select ICM before you can select Color Management to OFF.
All Models
Custom Setting: Save your settings with a new name. Also write them down!Press OK
Now you're ready to Print!
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